Dawson Creek to Ft. Nelson, BC

Signs along the Alaska Highway

Dual stories are unfolding: up north, I'm making my way along the Alaska Highway, while back in Marin, the house is... waiting. It's the weekend, which has consequences in both places. I'm putting "house fire" news in ash gray from now on, so if you don't want (or DO want) to read about that specifically, it should be easier to find.

Kiskatinaw Bridge

Leaving Dawson Creek

It rained (misty, drippy, or full on poured) for much of the day, so for once, weather and the planned activities for the day were in alignment. It was a good day to drive, and not be frustrated about the weather. Plus, the scenery was... well... rather unremarkable. Lots of trees. Flat or rolling hills that can't even really be seen because of all the trees. And sometimes fog.

The first stop was on the Old Alaska Highway to see the only remaining curved wooden bridge still in use: the Kiskatinaw Bridge. I first read this as "covered" bridge, but it's CURVED. I've never seen any other bridge like it. There is a nice campground below it near the river, and there were ample campsites available, perhaps because it was early in the morning.

Signage

So... if you're a running a business, how do you advertise your cinnamon buns or quilt shop in a place that has few ways of communication? You do it the old-fashioned way: put it in the newspaper, phone book, tourist magazine, or you put up a sign.

Signs at the crossroads

Signs sprout at crossroads like mushrooms in the rain. There are signs for welders, towing and auto repair, oil jobs, lodging, tourist services and more. I guess the idea is that when drivers come to a crossroads, they have to slow down, and therefore will look at the signs.

Most signs are painted plywood; but a few people have taken it beyond by putting a big sign on a derelict truck or container, drive it out to the road, and then leave it there. I can see the advantages: very sturdy, will last a long time, and won't blow over!

On to Ft. Nelson

There is a wide swath (maybe 100') on either side of the highway that is kept clear of trees. So it's alternately berry bushes, grass, wildflowers, other low-growing plants and sometimes water and swamp plants. Guidebooks advise that this is the place to look for wildlife. Bears come to eat the berries, and it is easy to see deer and other animals when their heads and bodies poke above the low growth.

I was alert for bears! I've only seen a few on this trip so far: in Waterton NP, and a fleeting glance of one near Banff. So I'm on the hunt. I know they are out there.

Every shadow under a tree; every clump of grass had me looking twice, positive that it was a bear. And it wasn't. No bears.

Miles of driving, and no animals whatsoever.

The trees are beautiful, though. They alternate between short, stunted conifers, and lush, mixed forest with incredibly tall aspens with their light trunks, and taller evergreens. I'm kind of amazed that so many trees grow in such a small area, and that there is such diversity. I'm puzzled by some of the conifers that grow with stately narrow foliage, and then seem to have something of a topknot of greenery. It just looks odd, and I wonder why this happens so frequently.

Wildflowers by the swollen Buckinghorse River

 I stopped for lunch at the Buckinghorse River. There was a campground and a large picnic area, right by the side of the river. With all the rain, the river was quite swollen. The willow bushes near the side of the river and on the stony islands were flooded and were pulsing in the turbulent water. The roar of the river could be heard even in the car, and I observed a number of tree trunks and tree rootballs careening down the river in the torrent. 

Quite a sight, with no one except me to appreciate it — there was no one here (not surprising as it wasn't really picnic weather).

After lunch, the highway passed by one interesting outcrop that had a thick resistant limestone or sandstone layer, so it looked almost like a tree-covered mesa. But it was soon gone, and trees again were the only thing to look at.

Geologic wonder of the day

And then! A dark, shadow by the side of the road... Really dark. Really big. And moving! Yes, it was a bear! A black, shaggy bear! Of course, moving at 100km/hr, there was no place to turn around, and by the time I did, the bear was long gone. But it was fabulous to see to see it.

Rain continued throughout the day, sometimes heavy.

Ft Nelson

It is interesting pulling into a town that basically you don't know anything about. Like everyone, I have needs: internet, a place to stay, information, and gas, pretty much in that order.

Each of the larger towns (and at population 3,900 in 2011, Ft. Nelson classifies as a "larger town"), has a visitor center. I crossed the time zone back into Pacific Daylight Time, so gained an hour back. The visitor center here was still open, and I used the hour to check on progress back home. When that closed, I was able to go next door to the recreation center, another beautiful facility, which had been built after the roof collapsed on their old one in 2008.

About the house: I'm not sure checking really was a good idea, as I did get an email from contractor Steve, and the news is not good. It's one thing to hear about what your house looks like from friends; it's another to hear what needs to be done from the insurance company and person that's going to be doing the work.

I still haven't gotten the breakdown from the insurance company; that will probably happen this week.  

For instance, the water damage is considerable. So much water was poured on the fire that not only is the second floor ceiling above the kitchen, dining room and part of the living room is charred black from the fire itself, but the wood flooring on the first floor, the ceiling of the downstairs, AND the downstairs floor is all damaged by water. And smoke. So it is going to take a lot of work to get it back to its formerly pristine state.  

I was pretty concerned about the water damage, and especially worried about the contents of a cardboard wardrobe box that my mother and grandmother's fur coats and special costume clothes were stored in — I could just see that cardboard wicking up water from the damaged flooring. There was also a small pine chest that had my grandmother's linens and laces that I was concerned would get moldy if that had gotten wet. Jette and Anders were kind enough to make yet another trip over to the house and get those things moved and airing out, and the rugs (more family heirlooms) are drying in the sun as we I write this. I am thankful that these family pieces escaped major damage, and for the friends that are helping preserve them. I will think of you every time I see them!

It can be done, it's just going to take a lot of work and money.

So... I had dinner by the highway, and took stock. I also tried to find a letterbox that was near the Mile 300 marker (a miniature oil derrick) but was unsuccessful at finding that one.

I'm not quite focussed and still in shock about the house.