Richardson Highway

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Yes, it's more catch-up, but I'm flyin' now.
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It was a fabulous day of adventuring and seeing a lot of country. Some of it was a repeat for me, but the last time I did this drive, it was raining, so I didn't see as much as I would have liked. It was a treat to get a second chance.

We think this is Denali, as seen from the Richardson Highway between Fairbanks and Big Delta

Moose meets RV. Moose wins.

Having worked out our morning routine (Fran made her coffee, Dena got up a little earlier), we packed up the car and set off.

We hadn't gone very far when we spied another moose. We'd actually seen several the night before, but didn't stop for pictures. Fran's seen moose before, and, well, so have I. I'm starting to get picky! The next time I'm taking a picture of a moose, it's going to be in a pond, with vegetation dripping from its mouth!

I think we saw TWO moose in the morning, one of them with a calf, in addition to the ones the previous evening. It is amazing how they melt into the willows by the side of the road, though. Even though you know there are there, you cannot see them!

The Alaska Range and Tenana River from the Richarson Hwy

THE RICHARDSON HIGHWAY: the Tenana River and Alaska Range 

The Richardson Highway, which we were following back to Delta Junction, roughly follows the Tenana River. We took the drive leisurely, looking and stopping along the way.

The flyboys near Eilson AFB were pretty entertaining. They were practicing flying and touchdown landings. Not anything like the Blue Angels, since there was a lot of airspace between them, but still fun to watch.

We stopped by the Tanana River at one point. It was clearer than it had been for days, and we could see the Alaska Range, and we think Denali was peeking through the clouds (above). The river was racing, too, after all the rain.

We drove in to see Harding Lake, but bypassed Quartz Lake, which I had thought about going to earlier in the trip (but didn't). Harding Lake is a BIG lake. Looks like it would be fun to paddle on. There was a lot of parking available — I'm sure it could get crowded for fishing, but there were few people here mid-week, even in the summer.

The Tenana: a classic braided river

Big Delta is the town at the confluence of the Delta River and the Tanana River, and is not to be confused with Delta Junction. If you remember, Delta Junction (about 10 miles south of Big Delta) is the town that is the northern terminus of the Alaska Highway (although Fairbanks would like to extend that claim to itself). Between the two towns is an excellent highway pullout with a description of the Denali Fault. There is a reason that Denali is such a big mountain: it's the result of the Pacific plate colliding with the North American plate, with the Yukutat micro-plate (aka terrane aka "block") refusing to subduct underneath. Instead, it's smashing into the North American plate and building mountains like crumpled rugs. (Here's a scholarly synopsis.)

RICHARDSON HIGHWAY: the Delta River

At Delta Junction we got gas and stopped at the store for some supplies. Fran got into a conversation with an older gentleman in front of us at the checkout line. He had some entrenched opinions about California!

Clearwater Mountains, Delta River

Probably the McGinnis Glacier, Mt McGinnis in the clouds

I was SO glad to repeat the section of the Richardson Highway, because the last time I was through it was rainy and misty, and visibility was severely impaired. Clouds were still caressing the peaks, but… there was blue sky! It's amazing what a little sun will do!

The mountains and glaciers of the Clearwater Range, in view to the west across the valley of the Delta River, are spectacular.

We stopped at a viewpoint to see bison, but didn't see any at all.

And lest we get carried away by looking across the valley, there were more mountains and glaciers on the southeast side of the road, too, spilling from mountains with names like "Mt. Silvertip," "Triangle Peak" and "White Princess."

It is a dramatic drive!

The Trans-Alaska Pipeline is often visible from the Richardson Highway

TAPS

One of the things I haven't mentioned is that the Trans-Alaska Pipeline (TAPS) runs parallel to the Richardson Highway. You can almost always see it, except where it runs underground.

You may not agree with the politics or the environmental risks, but there is no arguing that it is an engineering feat. Because of the danger of earth movement, both from permafrost and earthquakes, the pipeline is built in a zig-zag fashion to allow for movement. It is even supported by teflon sliders where the pipeline crosses the Denali Fault. The underground segments are refrigerated to keep permafrost from melting, and there are special radiators to diffuse heat above ground rather than below. The elevated design also allows animals (primarily caribou) to cross it.

The pipeline continues to be controversial. After the pipeline was completed in 1977, the amount of oil transported peaked in 1988, and has been declining ever since. With a lower through-put, there is some danger that without heaters, the oil will actually cease to flow due to the cold (there are different estimates for when this would happen). This is the impetus for opening the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge to oil drilling (to increase the amount of oil flowing in the pipeline).
Read a clear synopsis of the issues.

THE RICHARDSON HIGHWAY: Isabel Pass

The road climbs almost unnoticeably, but the river quickly gets smaller. Think about it in reverse: the river grows so quickly because of all the glacial runoff. As the road gets higher, there are fewer contributory streams. But the ones that are there are impressive!

The fabled "Rainbow Ridge" is a distinctive feature just north of Isabel Pass. The highest point is Rainbow Mountain, made from colorful volcanic rocks of Permian/Pennsylvanian age. See geology paper by Bond, GC. 

Looking at the south-facing slope, it's hard to believe that there are massive glaciers just on the other side of the ridge. Snow does melt in the summer here!

Rainbow Ridge near Isabel Pass

Approaching Isobel Pass, the north summit area was spectacularly beautiful. I suppose the clouds added to the drama; it wouldn't have been nearly the same without them. And I didn't see ANY of this on the previous trip through here!

Unnamed peaks along Phelan Creek. Isabel Pass is in the notch

On the other side of the pass, one can see the Gulkana Glacier. Pity we couldn't see all the mountains up there: Institute Peak, Minya Peak, Cony Peak, Ogive Mountain, Skull Peak, and Icefall Peak, to name just a few. (I'm not really complaining, as last time I couldn't even see the glacier!) 

The Gulkana Glacier from Isabel summit

Can you find the pingo?

But there was a pingo down in the plain, so that was kind of fun! A pingo is basically a mass of earth that's been pushed up by freezing and re-freezing of water.
Here's a good discussion of how they form (much better than I could give). Plus, diagrams. And pictures!

I'm not sure I would recognize another one, but this one was very distinctive. It looked like one of those volcano obstacles in miniature golf that used to drive me nuts.

Once over the summit at Isabel Pass, we did NOT stop to look at the dying salmon in the headwaters of the Galkona River, but pressed on to the Denali Highway.

I had really wanted to take this road. It's reputed to be very scenic, and, since it is a gravel road for the most part, everyone has to move at a slower pace. I was looking forward to that, and also kind of getting away from the RV crowd. Plus there were identified trails to walk on!

The region also encompassed the Tangle Lakes Archeological District. Rich with berries, caribou, and other game, Athabascans have been traveling and living in this region for 10,000 years. Over 600 sites, including pit houses and places where hand-worked tools were discovered, have been identified. I was eager to see what drew the people to this area.

Perhaps this gives one an idea... I would go there even if there were NOT caribou!

Panorama looking back to Mt Silvertip, Isabel Pass and the Gulkana Glacier (right).  

The view is spectacular. 

The weather was holding.

I was in heaven.