Friday, May 13, 2016

Salmon, Idaho

Grrrr. Had started to write this post, left it and lost everything. So this is somewhat abbreviated.

Unusual bi-color lilac at the Inn.
The scent of lilacs perfumes this little town, especially in the evening.

Sacagawea Inn

I'd booked a room at this little motel so that I could participate via FaceTime in a book club meeting.

The proprietoress was friendly, there was a resident black "motel cat" named Lily, a German Shepherd, too. I felt right at home!

I was given the "Bear Cub" room, complete with a mural of a mama bear and her two cubs in a forest scene on the wall above the bed. There were even sculpted bears on the toilet paper holder and light switches!

It was nice to get a shower and have unlimited power for once. I'm always having to be conscious of a draining battery!

Bathroom at the Sacagawea Inn. Note the origami towels!
The bathroom was charmingly dated with pink tile and pink ersatz marble formica around the sink. The towels were folded like nothing I've ever seen! I thought it was very comfortable and homey, complete with handmade afghan thrown over a sitting chair, a small garden with flowers, and a $3 breakfast with eggs, bacon, potatoes, toast and coffee.

The book club connection was not as successful as I would have liked — while FaceTime worked for a time (I was a disembodied Cheshire presence on Becky's phone), the video was jerky and kept dropping off. We opted for audio instead, but I still missed about 20% of the meeting. I'd like to try Google Hangouts or Skype next time.

Lilacs and hawthorne in Salmon
I ended up staying in Salmon for a few days (two nights at the motel and a couple "camping"). There was a brand-new library in town, just completed in 2015. In fact, they were just placing the sign for the library outside!

The library seemed to be something of a crossroads for locals, with topics of conversation ranging from the weather ("All my tomatoes froze," lamented one gentleman), to fishing, town politics, and cars. The library was well outfitted with computers, sitting areas, books, and best of all: tables to work at with ample plugs for power and fast wifi. I ended up working there, writing and researching for a couple of days.


Evening history walk

The library is also a great source of town information. You don't find everything online!

There was a great little brochure on a history walk, highlighting a number of historical structures around town. So as the sun set, I went for a walk to get to know the town a bit better. Dusk lasts for a long time — the sun sets about 8:30pm, but it doesn't really get dark until after 9:30pm.
Sunset over the Bitterroot Range; Salmon River in the foreground

As I walked, the scent of lilacs perfumed the air. They were flowering exuberantly everywhere: deep purple, lavender, maroon and white. The aroma will always bring back memories of Salmon, Idaho.


This home wasn't on the tour, but is typical of homes in town.
History Park was tucked away between a pizza joint and a real estate building, and it was interesting to read the exhibits about the native Americans, trappers and explorers, Mormon missionaries, miners and merchants, including those who became prominent citizens of the area, like George Shoup, a merchant and rancher who became territorial governor and then senator of Idaho.

Idaho and Montana (and South Dakota, too), have had boom and bust years from gold, silver, lead, and copper mining, as well as from logging. 


Main Street, Salmon, Idaho
I think the earliest building on the tour was from the 1880s. Most buildings featured were from the turn of the century since there was a building surge then, mostly fueled by mining interests.

Lemhi County Courthouse in Salmon, ID
Lots of brick, with interesting pediments and ornamentation. Of course, churches were important, too, and the courthouse, a massive brick building built in 1909, is on the National Register.

Salmon River and Island Park

The other thing about Salmon, Idaho, was that it seemed to be a safe, friendly small town. 

Kids were laughing, shouting and playing outside, riding bikes and skateboards until dark, with nary a parent hovering in the background.

Rafters on the Salmon River at dusk.
There was a skateboard park on Island Park, located between arms of the Salmon River and accessible via a sturdy pedestrian bridge.

Dog walkers made good use of this park, too. Curiously, the only hours that were posted as "on leash" hours were 11:30am-1:30pm. I wondered if that was because people often took lunchtime there and didn't want to be accosted by exuberant, wet dogs?

The Salmon River was running high and swift. A few rafts were running the rapids and passed by faster than I was walking.

I had to laugh at a couple of mallards that looked for all the world like they were enjoying running the rapids, too. They sped downriver, bouncing up and down the waves, and as soon as they passed into relatively still water, paddled furiously to get to the side of the river where the current was less so they could swim back upstream. I swear they were going to do it all over again, just for the sheer enjoyment of the speed and an adrenaline rush.

The area is on the Idaho Birding Trail, and the trees and brush were full of twittering birds, especially at dusk. I spotted an osprey, too. It was pretty magical!

Heron at dusk


Osprey at dusk

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