All the little goodbyes...

Piles of things to pack.

The road north beckons; over 3000 miles to go.

I'm excited to be on my way and fulfill a dream almost 40 years* in the making. Over the past months, it's been a whirlwind of activity with too much to do to get ready to go and attend to all the necessary things that need doing as I can't depend on being in touch (cell or internet) for much of this trip. Phew!

Now that the final flurry of activity is almost done, it's finally sinking in that I'm leaving friends and family for quite some time.

Each of these has been a little “letting go” over the past few weeks:

• returning library books — and not getting new ones
• unsubscribing from unnecessary email lists
• walking the neighborhood and knowing it will look different the next time I see it
• gradually clearing out the freezer
• submitting "temporary" mail forwarding: all mail will now be going to South Dakota and will eventually catch up with me periodically at places of my choosing, most likely "General Delivery," Smalltown, AK. ==> And yes, you can write me there (3916 N Potsdam Ave. #4503, Sioux Falls, SD 57104), and I will eventually get it.
• resigning from NextDoor BlueRock (may start one in SD!!)
• farming out the few plants gathered over the last few months or rooted from cuttings
• conditioning the icebox (getting it cold with jugs of ice - another reason for clearing out the freezer)
• last load of laundry so clothes and towels start out clean
• packing N0MAD so it's easy to play, work, eat and sleep
• putting out the last batch of trash & recyclables
• turning off and unplugging all electronics
• closing the door & turning the key in the lock
• getting in N0MAD and driving away...

The first layer: this is my "tiny home" for the next nine months.

I'm so glad I've been able to visit and walk and talk and share meals with many of you in the past months…

And if I missed meeting up with you, it doesn't mean I love you less, just that our friendship is strong and doesn't necessarily need an "adieu."

I will miss you all but will be in touch when I can. You can "subscribe" to this blog by email, and it will notify you when there is a new post. (I hope that feature works.)

First stop: East Bay, then Sacramento.

---

*For those of you who may not know the "why" of this trip, here's the short story: 
After graduating from UC Santa Cruz with a degree in chemistry/emphasis in biochem, I worked as a lab assistant at a small startup in Palo Alto. But it soon became clear to me that, while work was interesting and with a great group of people, I didn't like being inside all the time. I craved being outdoors. I took long walks on the weekends and took inspiration from the mountains, the rocks, and wondering why the land looked the way it did. Thinking about what field of study would allow me to learn more – and work outside – led me to geology. 
I took night courses for a bit, just to see if it was a good fit, and loved it. That led to more coursework (while still working full-time), and finally deciding to apply to graduate school. I applied to three and was accepted at all of them: UC Santa Barbara, University of Washington at Seattle, and University of Alaska at Fairbanks. 
At the time, I really, really wanted to to go to Alaska. There was a master's project all lined up for me on the Copper River. I dreamed of mountains and glaciers, fast-tumbling rivers and open tundra, ice and cold, and the midnight sun. But ultimately, it was just too far away from friends and family — just too scary for a 20-something-year-old, and I opted for the safe choice at UCSB. 

And of course I do wonder how my life would have turned out had I opted for Alaska then. I like to think that my destiny has just been delayed, and I was meant to go there from the beginning.

Reminders

I am so grateful.

While I have purchased some new things for this trip (and the last posts might make it seem that I'm a profligate spender), most of you who are reading know that this is not "normal" for me.

It is the little things coming with me — from friends near and far — that are the most special. 

In the Great Purge, I was only able to keep a very few things that were either necessary for daily life or irreplaceable family heirlooms. Everything I kept fit into two small 8'x10'x10' storage units and my backpack. At the point when I closed the door on the house, I didn't even have a car.

The items that I've been gifted with are doubly treasured, not only for what they are, but for the friendship and the memories they represent. All of these will be coming with me on this trip:

Swiss army knife: I have carried this knife with me for almost 40 years. I've used it countless times for one reason or another. It's unique, with an antique car emblem on it, and I've never seen another one like it. It fit me perfectly, since it doesn't have a corkscrew! Thank you, Pat Murphy!  

ThermaRest pad: I have slept on this every single night that I've not been house/pet-sitting or backpacking. It's been SO nice to have just a little more padding and insulation on the cot. Thank you, Linda! 

Bookmark from Peru(?): Every time I use this when reading a real book, I admire the design and the stones and remember our friendship over the past 30+ years. I've even used it as a hair decoration, it's so pretty. Thank you, Jane! 

Socks! Yes! Socks! When you only have a few pairs, they tend to wear out quickly! Thank you Dee and Katharine! 

Slippers! Susan... I'll think of you every time these are on my feet. I'm so happy to have something I can easily slip on and are sturdy enough for a quick dash out of the car. I might even drive in them! And I even like your mom's "decorations." 

Backpacking stove: Fran, thank you again so much for this, especially since I was so unhappy to have lost mine. It's a great little backup stove.  

Aluminum (AKA "Sharpe") camping plates: You know these! Technically, these weren't given to me (they were scrounged from various thrift shops), but such good memories are attached to them that they need to be included here.

Bright red "ladybug" hand-knit cotton dishcloth: I use this pretty much every day, and I will think of you, Chris, working on your next knitting project!  

Arequipa beach towel, mini-duffel & thermos: Yaaay for Girl Scouts! The beach towel is perfect: big enough to lie on in the sun, or cover anything <ahem> that needs covering in a hostel, yet not so heavy that it takes a lot of space. I keep my sundries in the red duffel, and the thermos is just the right size for hot or cold drinks. I'll take a picture of the Girl Scout goodies somewhere up north and send it to you. Thanks, Sharon, and the Camp Arequipa Team! 

Richard Solo iPhone battery: While I haven't used it that much until now, it WILL get used on this trip, because I'm going to have to deal with power management! Karen, we have shared so much over the years since the kids were little, when we two night owls stayed up late working on the school directories. Good times! (Seems like there is a metaphor here for us, as we always seem to be working on reserve power!)

Waterbrush: Mary, I'm really looking forward to using this more on this trip. I could only hope that a tiny bit of your awesome talent might have magically flowed into its bristles! You are an inspiration in many ways, and I'll miss running into you on local walks. May all your waves be good ones... 

Silver oak leaf earrings: These are truly precious, as they remind me of the big oak tree in our yard at 577 Magnolia, of travels and trips shared, and of a mutual love of nature and gardens. Thank you, my sweet daughter. I love you, and you are with me always.

And it is odd — and something of a shock — that as I've written this, the home in Larkspur that we sold in November, 2014, is back on the market. It is… changed. And while on one level I cannot deny that it's disconcerting to see those changes, on another level, it doesn't matter one whit. Because the times that were shared at that remarkable house — kids and their friends swinging from the oak tree, guide dog puppies cavorting on the lawn and cats sleeping in the sun, friends gathering for Oktoberfest and Sharpe dinners and Fourth-of-July waffle breakfasts, plants lovingly added to the garden one-by-one — those memories are what last forever.

And I will take them wherever I go.

Acquisitions, 2016: Part II

Cedar waxwings flying in and lining up to take a bath in the saucer in the backyard. 
Taken with the new Nikon D7200 DSLR. What an improvement over the iPhone!!!!!

Nikon D7200 DSLR camera

Way back when: The last really good camera I owned was an Olympus OM2 SLR. Took lots of memorable photos with it, but after the onset of the digital era, it became something of a dinosaur. The next camera I bought for myself was a compact, lightweight Nikon E3200 point-and-shoot for the 2004 PCT hike. I loved that camera and used it for years. It had everything I wanted in a backpacking and all-around camera: it was compact and light, had a rangefinder, modest zoom, good battery life, and operated on standard batteries that were easy to replace. Sadly, after 10 years, it gave up the ghost and would no longer read/write to the SD cards.

And then: After the Nikon died, I ended up using the iPhone 2, then 3, then 4, which was convenient but unsatisfying. With its highly reflective screen, taking pictures outdoors in sunlight is challenging and frustrating, and the fixed angle tends to flatten everything in a scene. Granted, I've taken some good pictures with it, but I ended up taking pictures that I COULD take, not the ones that I wanted. It's also inconvenient to have to keep checking battery life and trade off taking pictures for other functionality — like using it as a phone, or for other apps. I've really come to resent the poor thing, and with the upcoming trip, it seemed like the time was right to get a new, more powerful camera, and let the iPhone be used as a phone only, or for quick backups.

And now: The main reasons for deciding on this Nikon were: long battery life, excellent low-light capability (animals tent to come out in the early morning or evening), and good optics. It also had WiFi capability, which sounded sexy, but isn't turning out to be quite as useful as I thought it would be.
==> I got this on a special deal through Costco. It included a "free" Nikkor 55-300mm VR telephoto lens, camera bag, 32GB SD card AND a $400 manufacturer's "instant" rebate. I thought this was a pretty good deal, even with California sales tax! 

[Still to consider: I haven't decided whether to get a digiscoping adapter for this camera to the Kowa. I think I'm going to wait and see how the iPhone works with the scope. If it ends up being frustrating (again), there are two options:

1. A Kowa PA7 + T2 adapter mount: This option is (relatively, which is not saying much) cheaper and allows quick changes from taking pictures with the camera to just viewing with the scope, because the scope stays intact. The camera and adapter just slide on and off the scope. Pictures would be higher quality photos than the iPhone can give, especially in low light, because the Nikon offers higher resolution and better optics. 
2. A Kowa TSN-PZ + TSN-CM2 adapter mount. As far as I can tell, the second option sort of merges the camera and scope into one unit for a time. You have to remove the eyepiece on the scope and attach the TSN-PZ, which actually is a zoom eyepiece that fits between the camera and scope. Then you attach the camera with its adapter mount so everything is locked together. You have the advantage of additional zoom capability with this setup, but it's considerably more expensive, and not as flexible.

The jury remains out on this, but I've done the research, so if I decide the iPhone photos really aren't cutting it, I'll know what to do. I think.]

Solar Charging System

What worked then... Last year I was driving every single day. It was no problem to keep my low-power devices charged from the USB port in the car as I drove: the phone (for taking photos), the Paperwhite Kindle for reading, and the mp3 player for walking and bedtime stories (so I don't have to fumble with glasses). I also had an iPad along, but it took forever to charge that device from the USB port, so I used it rarely – the Kindle was much more power-efficient. I only used the computer infrequently, and managed to charge it when I stayed with friends or other lodgings.

I have a 5W Powerfilm solar panel that I've used in the backcountry. It's incredibly light and worked fine to power my mp3 player (a SanDisk Sansa Clip+) and LG phone. It struggles to charge the iPhone 4, so obviously I need more power.

...won't work now. I don't want to drive every day. The idea is to get to a nice place, set up camp and explore by biking, hiking or kayaking. Or draw, read, observe and write. But the problem is, I have more electronic gadgets (camera! emergency radio! iPhone! iPad! Kindle! mp3player!) to keep powered, and I've committed to this blog so I'll need to fire up the computer periodically, too.

The panel folds up to a package about the size of a binder!

While solar was the obvious choice, it's not as easy to come up with a system that's optimized for what I want. I don't have a big RV or running a hair dryer, coffee maker or other appliances. My needs are fairly simple, and I wanted to keep the system light, as the car is already pretty loaded with both weight and volume.

After much angst, I've purchased the ALLPOWERS 60W folding solar panel, an external RAVPower 23000mAh "Extreme" Li-ion polymer battery pack, and a cable that connects the external battery to the MacBook Air. Everything else charges through USB, so should either be able to charge directly from the solar panel, or from the battery pack (or the older 5W Powerfilm charger).

The battery pack is in the center.

There were at least three people who stated that this combination worked for their computers in their reviews; I'm crossing my fingers that this will work. If not, I'll either go without, or pay a visit to a Canadian solar merchant. Stay tuned.

And yes, I'm backing everything up before I leave!

Acquisitions 2016: Part I

Attention, gearheads... A number of people have asked what I will take along on this trip.

I'll be taking everything from last year's trip on this one, except for the old backpacking tent, which needs repair, having leaked through the floor on the PCT trip in Washington.

These are the new items for the Canada/Alaska trip, along with links if you want to know more.
In this post: 

• Big Agnes "Deep Creek" Tarp (and Bug House)
• Midland NOAA Weather Radio
• Nemo "Hornet" UL Backpacking Tent
• Kowa TSN 884 Spotting Scope

The Deep Creek tarp can be set
up in a variety of ways

Big Agnes "Deep Creek" Tarp (and Bug House)

So why not a tent? Those of you who know me know that I don't like being "inside" especially when outdoors!

I really liked the flexibility of this tarp. It's free-standing and can be put up in various configurations. It can be rigged over the car for shade or rain protection. Besides, I got a good deal on it, and the fact that it came with two telescoping poles was a big plus.

The Bug House under the tarp.

It also has a "bug house" option. Considering that the mosquito is a.k.a. the state bird of Alaska, the Bug House will provide an expanded and protected space to sleep, relax, read, write or draw — but not cook (one does not want to attract bears into one's living/bedroom).

Plus, either piece can be used on it's own, although I'm not sure why one would set up the Bug House without the canopy...

<ahem> Of course, full disclosure requires me to report that it took about 45 minutes to set up the system the first time solo — on a day with light winds. At that rate, I'll be swollen with bites by the time I can flee into its shelter. It would be handy to have a second person, but I'll get more adept with practice. Having one part attached to the car, even temporarily, should really help.
==> There's more info here, plus a kind of cool video:
https://www.bigagnes.com/Products/Detail/Tent/deepcreektarplarge

Midland NOAA Weather Radio

Last year, with all the rain and severe weather along the route, I was uncomfortable not getting good weather reports. The weather "app" on the Toyota was useless when I needed it — most of the time it couldn't connect to anything, and trying to tune to AM radio weather was time-consuming and frustrating. iPhone apps were equally useless, as cell service was virtually non-existent.

With this handy radio, I'll be able to monitor the weather anywhere in range of NOAA or Canadian transmitters. It charges quickly (5 hrs on "shore power") and seems to last about a week with intermittent use (1/2 hr/day). I'll watch the clouds, and wind, and then tune in.
==> Why I chose this one, and more info:
http://thesweethome.com/reviews/emergency-preparedness/#radio
http://www.amazon.com/Midland-Consumer-ER310-Emergency-Digital/dp/B015QIC1PW/

Nemo "Hornet" UL Backpacking Tent 

Out with the old: MSR Zoid 1 on rock &
snowfields below Elizabeth Pass, 2004

The old: My MSR "Zoid 1" was considered a light solo backpacking tent 12 years ago. At about 3-1/2 lbs, it was my trusted shelter in snow, hail, rain, cold and wind for over 1100 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, the High Sierra Loop in Yosemite, six summers of trail crew in the Inyo NF, and various other shorter trips. BUT, the floor leaked on the last trip in Washington state, and before using it again, I'll want to re-coat the bottom.

The new: With increased interest in "ultra-light" shelters, tent technology has evolved over the past few years, and it seemed like the right time to try something new.

In with the new 2016 version:
Nemo Hornet 1P

Of the various options, bivvys are very light but too confining (for me), and I'm not a fan of tarp tents, or single-wall tents (won't bore you with details). I'm used to a small tent, but do like to sit up to read or change clothes without being bitten by bugs.

At just 2 lbs, the Hornet is insanely light and compact. Several people have tested it on the AT (Appalachian Trail) and PCT (Pacific Crest Trail) and given it 5-star thumbs up. I won't be doing long thru-hikes with it on this trip — more likely quick overnight or 2-day trips, so it seems like an ideal way to test it out. And I still have the silnylon poncho as backup. I'm particularly curious to see how it handles condensation.
==> Want to know more? Check it out here:

http://www.nemoequipment.com/product/?p=Hornet+1P

Photo taken from patio with iPhone 4

Kowa TSN 884 Spotting Scope

Oh my. I'll blame this on my birdwatching friends, who definitely were a baaaaaad influence. But, I admit, I was easily swayed. Who wants to go to Alaska and squint to see sheep, or caribou, or elk, or eagles? Or even use binoculars and strain to see more? The time to get this was NOW, not wait.

One of the reasons for getting a pricey scope was that it could also be used as a telephoto lens for a camera (and thereby not spend twice on optics). While I have't fully tested this yet, I did get an inexpensive adapter for the much-maligned iPhone 4, and am pretty blown away by how well it seems to work. Of course, trying to take pictures of a palm tree is a lot different that a bird on the wing, but still... with patience and some luck, I should be able to get some good photos!

Palm tree on the right taken from the
same spot as above, also with the
iPhone 4 but through the
Kowa TSN-884 scope at 60x. Wow.

Bottom line: I'm SUPER glad that I bit the bullet and went ahead with this purchase. It's just amazing what you can see with it, whether I take pictures or not. I will always remember watching the pair of bald eagles on Tomales Bay this past winter. Being able to follow their flight and see talons flexing and extending to grab a stick to carry back to build the nest was incredible.
==> I managed a good deal on this from B & H Photo/Video (free shipping, no tax, a $200 manufacturer's rebate and a free tripod)
==> This is an exhaustive review, probably more than anyone wants to know, but I devoured all the information I could find before plunking down the big bucks:
http://www.bestspottingscopereviews.com/KowaTSN-883SpottingScope-9.htm

But wait! There's more!

Plan B, then Plan C, then...

First the one, then the other:
broken glasses.

Glasses: devices we use to see things clearly. I broke two pairs of them today.

On the first, somehow the connector that held the "temple" to the hinge just pulled apart. One moment the glasses were on my nose; the next they dropped in my lap. The screw was still in place, but they didn't hold together and weren't usable.

No problem, I have a spare. Unfortunately during the time it had been carried about in my backpack, it had gotten a bit out of shape and kept falling off my nose. In bending it back into shape, it promptly snapped at the nosepiece.

Now the backup was busted. What are the chances TWO pairs of glasses would break in one day?

I had stashed a third set in the car for emergencies — I'm using that pair now. I've mended both the broken ones, and they will do in a pinch until I get new ones. Yaay for duct tape, bamboo kebab sticks and E6000 glue.

So how is this relevant to the upcoming adventure?

Bad things can happen, whether you're prepared or not. When you hear of people who run into trouble in the wilderness, it's usually not because ONE thing went wrong, or even two things. It's because there was a cascade of events: an accident, a change in the weather, equipment failure, and sometimes poor decisions. Even good decisions, which are based on information available at the time, can have bad outcomes.

In the movie All is Lost, things just kept going wrong, even though the sailor (played by Robert Redford) dealt with each issue with calm, deliberate action.

In Alaska, the highway from Fairbanks to Deadhorse is 500 miles on a mostly gravel road. For just the reasons mentioned above, it's recommended that travelers carry TWO spare tires. That's also one of the reasons — even though I have a tough, relatively new Toyota 4Runner — that I won't be taking this particular highway, at least this time around. I just don't have room for a second spare, and I'm not happy with the other Plan B (Toyota extended care and my Spot locator with road service backup).

Two tires can still go flat, just like two glasses can break in a day.

I can see that quite clearly now!

LOOKING BACK, AND FORWARD

I'm heading out again soon on another road trip.

Last year's 2-3-month trip through the western US was essentially a dry run for the upcoming trip to Canada and Alaska. It was wonderful, but I learned a lot:
- I was driving too much
- I was frustrated that I didn't have enough time to fully explore some of the areas that I was going through.
- There is ALWAYS something to see, even in places where you think there isn't.

So for this year's trip to Canada and Alaska, I am making NO reservations. And while I'd like to make it to Denali, if I spend three months in Canada (the maximum amount of time allowed), that's okay. I have a feeling this won't be the last trip north.

Life on the road: my traveling "office"
 

For those of you who are interested in gear, I was VERY pleased with most* of the items that I brought last year.
- The kayak didn't fly off the roof of the car.
- Nobody stole the bicycle.
- The YETI ice-chest was awesome, keeping a block of ice for almost a week even in desert heat, and doubled as my standup desk and nightstand. And solid stepstool to get to the bike off the roof rack. And bench to sit on. Best purchase ever.
- The REI cot is extraordinarily comfortable -- while I had thought I'd camp outside more often, that ended up not to be the case; it was easier, safer and more comfortable to just sleep on it in the car and not have to worry about packing up all the other gear in the morning (including a wet tent). And I could stop anywhere.
- The Travoy bike trailer made transporting the kayak down to water much easier, as long as the shore wasn't too rocky.
- The MSR Firefly stove worked well, but I ended up traveling too much to really use a lot.
- The Cobb BBQ/oven was actually pretty efficient and it was nice to be able to BBQ. The downside is that it does get dirty and is hard to clean on the road.

I'm getting a few items for this year, but more about that in another post!

*The sole exception to this was the kayak cover, which didn't fit as tightly as hoped, and blew off somewhere on the way west. In St Louis, I replaced it with a neoprene cover, plus two straps to keep it secure. This was an imperative purchase, as rains were filling the kayak with water and making it dangerously heavy. Unfortunately, I'm going to have to replace the cover again -- even though it has stayed on, it's sun-damaged, and I'm not sure how long it will last.